You should always pack sun cream for a skiing holiday, but when you're travelling in spring, you'd better pack spare! We visited Whistler in April to see how the resort fares as a late season ski destination.
Along with three of our operations team - Kirstin, Morna and Natasha - I boarded the plane in Gatwick with the weather forecast predicting higher temperatures in Canada than an average British summer. Would this mean more sunbathing than skiing? What about the snow conditions? There was only one way to find out...
The Scenic Sea to Sky Highway
After a 10 hour flight, it's incredibly tempting to nap on your way to resort, which is exactly what half of our group immediately did. Sadly for them, they missed the spectacular sights afforded by the two-hour transfer along the Sea to Sky Highway.
Ocean vistas, snow-capped mountains, dramatic waterfalls and even an eagle soaring overhead, all bathed in glorious sunshine. A good way to start a trip.
We weren't the only ones enjoying the drive; we spotted plenty of sports cars and motorcyclists taking advantage of the good weather to cruise along the long, winding road.
Slushy Spring Skiing?
Landing in unseasonably warm weather in Vancouver, we were concerned about the snow conditions in Whistler. However, thanks to Whistler's highest snowfall in four years (including three metres in March alone), the snowpack was comfortably over two metres mid mountain and you could still ski from top to bottom.
Going against all forecasts (weather in the alpine couldn't be more different to the village in Whistler), we were treated to a whiteout on our first day skiing, which meant fresh snow but also challenging visibility and varied conditions - at one point I skied through snow, hail, rain and fog all in one run! The snow continued on day two but from then on it was bright blue skies and glorious views, so we experienced a bit of everything. Just look at the difference 24 hours can make to a view:
Even through the weekend we had the slopes practically to ourselves, with few lift lines. If anywhere felt a bit crowded we could soon work our way to a quieter area - or even take the Peak 2 Peak across to the other mountain!
Conditions in the alpine remained great but lower down did become heavy with slush towards the end of our stay and only a few brave souls continued to ski to the village while the rest of us downloaded from midway. This was true spring skiing with temperatures reaching 20ºC and skiers heading out in shorts and t-shirts.
If you find that photo offputting, bear in mind that conditions in the alpine were still fantastic the next day, with more skiable terrain than most North American ski resorts even when the lower runs are shut.
Spring Events
Gaper Day
Whistler Mountain always closes around a month before Blackcomb to start preparations for the summer season, and we were there for closing day, also known as Gaper Day.
This is where local skiers take to the mountain for one last day together, usually dressed in ridiculous outfits, followed by some serious après. It meant a fantastic vibe on the slopes and in the village, with everyone in high spirits.
World Ski & Snowboard Festival
Adding to the buzzing atmosphere in the village was the World Ski & Snowboard Festival (WSSF), taking place in Whistler every April and ending the same day that Whistler Mountain shut.
We took full advantage of the festival programme: meeting ex-Ski Safari team member Victoria (who now lives in Whistler) for the Intersection film competition; enjoying local bands with post-ski après beers at GLC, and watching electro-funk duo Chromeo while local skiers and boarders battled it out in the Gibbons Style Session. The only thing we missed was the dog parade!
Despite everything going on, the village retained its relaxed, down-to-earth atmosphere due to the quieter spring period.
The next World Ski & Snowboard Festival is scheduled for 7-16 April 2017, visit wssf.com for details.
On Mountain / Off Skis
We weren't just in Whistler to ski, we also booked in to try two of our most popular non-ski activities - ziplining with Ziptrek and snowmobiling with Canadian Wilderness Adventures.
Ziptrek
We went on the Ziptrek Eagle Tour, a two and a half hour journey through between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains via treetop suspension bridges and five ziplines. Described as ‘perfect if you’ve ziplined before or crave an adrenaline rush’, it’s not so perfect if you’re scared of heights.
Without naming names, one of our less vertically inclined team had to drop out half-way through, so it might be worth considering the gentler Bear Tour if you're unsure ziplining is for you.
For those of us with more of a head for heights, we were encouraged to spin, go hands-free and even flip ourselves upside down to increase the adrenaline rush. It's not all heart-pounding zipline descents, with frequent stops to admire the views and learn about the old-growth rainforest ecosystem.
As our tour took place the evening of Whistler Mountain's last day, we even had the honour of taking the last gondola of the winter season! This was particularly appropriate for Morna who during her 12 years at Ski Safari has earned the esteemed Ski Safari staff 'first lift, last lift' award.
Snowmobiling
On our last morning in Whistler, we headed to the Callaghan Valley with Canadian Wilderness Adventures for a snowmobile tour. Due to the high snow-line, we had to take ATVs up to the snowmobiles. It was just as fun as the actual snowmobiling, and we clocked up some serious speed on the way back down - especially Morna who left everyone in her dust.
This was my first time snowmobiling and I genuinely think everyone should give it a go once. From gentle, easy riding to extreme backcountry tours you can take it at your own pace. I can't wait to try it again!
By the time we made it up the mountain it was very warm, so off came the layers until we were snowmobiling in t-shirts. The high altitude and snow glare combined to provide some sore, red arms - a reminder to always have sun cream on you on the slopes, you never know when you might need it.
Ziptrek and snowmobiling are just two of many non-ski activities that we can help arrange as part of your Whistler ski holiday. Speak to your specialist or read our Whistler activities guide to find out more.
Four Foodies in Whistler
It wouldn't be a Ski Safari trip report without a section on food.
As most of our office have either skied or lived in Whistler, we were spoilt for recommendations, which on return inspired our Whistler Foodie Guide. Here are our highlights:
Breakfast
Most mornings we grabbed a quick coffee and granola yogurt pot from Lift Coffee Company to start the day, but we did find time for two cooked breakfasts.
We had to try Brickworks simply because of the amazing decor inside. If you're staying in the Delta, you can walk straight in from the lobby, leaving your ski gear there ready to catch a shuttle to the lifts after you've eaten. The breakfast menu is bigger than most restaurant dinner menus and we struggled to finish the portion sizes - and then stay awake on the gondola!
We also sampled the extensive Eggs Benedict menu at Four Seasons on our last day in resort, who knew there were so many variations?
Après
We split our après time between Garibali Lift Co. (GLC) in Whistler Village and Merlin's in Blackcomb, depending on where we finished skiing for the day. If there was a shortage of nachos, yam fries, onion rings and Kokanee in Whistler that week we're partly responsible.
Both are great venues to relax in the late afternoon/early evening, especially GLC where we could watch WSSF events from the outdoor patio. Both bars were quite quiet compared to high season, but the lack of atmosphere meant we always had somewhere to sit with speedy table service!
Dinner
We had two outstanding dining experiences in Whistler.
On our first night we were treated to a dinner with a show at Teppan Village. If you're not familiar with teppanyaki dining, the skilled chefs prepare and cook in front of your eyes as you sit around an open grill. The food is delicious but you do have to remember to keep eating as your chef performs tricks and sets everything on fire.
However, by far our favourite evening of the trip was an unforgettable culinary experience at the Bearfoot Bistro, something that everyone who visits Whistler has to try at least once.
We began with a champagne sabering lesson in Western Canada's largest wine cellar, home to over 20,000 bottles of the world's best vintages, before our fresh fish starter. We were then ushered into the Ketel One Ice Room (the world's coldest vodka tasting room), where we were learned about the vodka distilling process and sampled four of the 50 finest vodkas from around the world. I wouldn't say I'm the biggest fan of vodka, but the extreme cold enhances the flavour and takes away the alcohol burn.
Our main course of melt-in-the-mouth lamb was followed by our final experience - ice cream made fresh at our table using frozen nitrogen. Each course is paired with a different drink, which combined with champagne sabering and vodka tasting means some heavy first turns the next morning. They offer a spring mid-week special when a three course meal costs $38, so fine dining doesn't have to break the bank.
If your ski holiday is for a special occasion, Bearfoot Bistro has to be on your list.
36 Hours in Vancouver
We ended our Whistler trip with a short stay in Vancouver, bringing the weather with us from Whistler. Unseasonably warm weather (up to 25ºC!) gave us the chance to get out and explore the city by bike, boat and open-top bus.
With only 36 hours to spend, we went into full-blown tourist mode, our hotel right in the city centre providing the perfect base to explore.
On our first evening, weary from Whistler, we meandered down to Canada Place to cool off in the sea breeze and watch the sunset. We then headed into Gastown to eat at the Flying Pig - recommended both by our transfer driver and friends living in Vancouver - before walking back to our hotel for an early night.
On the way back, we saw first-hand how Vancouver is the third largest centre for the film industry in North America as we walked past the set for TV show The Flash.
In the morning we hired bikes for a leisurely two hour cycle around Stanley Park, stopping to admire the views and the First Nations totem poles. After returning our bikes we caught some rays at English Bay Beach before jumping on a Hop-on Hop-off bus to Granville Island for lunch.
Trying yet another mode of transport we jumped on a False Creek ferry over to Yaletown. From here we planned to then walk through downtown to Canada Place for the FlyOver Canada experience, but as we had some time to kill we were tempted by an 'Appy Hour' sign at the aptly named 'The Wine Bar' en route.
Despite colleagues raving about it beforehand, none of us were particularly excited by the prospect of FlyOver Canada, it's just a big simulator right? Wrong. We were all blown away, it's a must visit for anyone staying in Vancouver. The sights, sounds and smells give you the feeling of actually gliding over Canada - and there's even a bit of skiing in there!
To end our day of sightseeing on a high, we went up the Vancouver Lookout Tower for a 360º panoramic view of the city. As well as admiring the sights, it also sunk in just how much ground we'd covered, so we called it a day and returned to Gastown for our last meal of the trip.
We always recommend at least one night in Vancouver for anyone travelling to Whistler, there's a huge amount to do at any time of the year. See our Vancouver City Add On page for more information.
For more photos, head to our Facebook photo album.