Trip Report: Skiing Sunrise to Sunset in Sweden

As well as flying on the first direct flight from London Gatwick to Åre Östersund, they were lucky enough to experience both groomed pistes and powder skiing, while their early visit meant some awe-inspiring sunrises and sunsets on the slopes.

Watch the video highlights below and then read on to find out what they thought of the two resorts.

Victoria - "We departed on the inaugural EasyJet flight between London Gatwick and Åre Östersund Airport, which gave the trip a sense of occasion. Even the pilot seemed highly excitable, taking selfies with the crew in front of a Swedish flag. In Östersund we were greeted with confectionery, wine, either a major or a mayor (there is still some confusion!) and a local TV crew - all in celebration of the first flight on this route. Joe made it onto the local news and enjoyed celebrity status throughout the rest of the trip as a result."

Joe - "Even if they didn’t know we had been on that flight, any hotelier we met would still mention their excitement at having the opportunity to show to the world just how great Sweden is for skiing through easier access to the resorts.

"What struck me first and foremost was how plentiful the snow was. I’m more than familiar with issues relating to lack of snow in countries like France and Italy in December, so it seems that if you’re looking for an early season get away then these two resorts are ideal. The contrast in size of the two resorts was noticeable but didn’t in any way detract from how highly I would recommend both."

Victoria - "Vemdalen is made up of three centres connected by a handy bus. It is an easy, and pretty, two hour drive from Östersund Airport. We stayed in the 4* Fallmoran apartments in Vemdalsskalet, a superb, practically ski-in ski-out location. You could see the slopes from our apartment which made for a very short walk to the skiing. Vemdalsskalet had fewer amenities than some of the larger resorts we've visited, but none of us saw this as a negative and there's everything you need. It was refreshing to stay at a modest base with the highly affable atmosphere that smaller set ups tend to offer. There are a number of places to enjoy a meal, including a top Thai restaurant BKK Kitchen which served spicy reindeer as one of their starters."

Joe - "I was surprised to see that Vemdalen had a much better supermarket than I had expected. The prices were completely reasonable and in a lot of cases almost the same as what you’d expect in England. The Thai restaurant was also a lovely surprise and set the standard for the extremely high quality of food that we would have in the other restaurants, both in Vemdalen and in Åre. It was great being in a resort that felt contained, knowing that everything I would need is just a minute’s walk away."

Victoria - "As we arrived a few days before the chairlifts were officially open we were treated to a skidoo ride up the mountain to give us a feel for the place. Quite a way to arrive at the top of the resort and disappointment may ensue on future trips when I am next transported up the mountain by more ordinary means. There wasn’t quite enough room on the skidoo for Ola Rådström, our smiley host, so he was pulled behind on the skidoo on his skis and managed to successfully navigate all the corners, even those taken at more alarming speed. He seemed non-fazed by his trip up to the top, apparently well used to such antics as part of prior army training. We enjoyed the descent, especially as we were fortunate enough to have a powder day, allowing Luke to impart the much used ‘no friends on a powder day’ phrase.

Luke - "The terrain reminded me of the Quebec resorts - tree lined, wide pistes with good side hits. The different ski areas are linked by bus and the main area is perfect for families and beginners. The pitch is gentle and it’s small enough that it’s impossible to get lost. The Husky Bar is a great spot - an authentic pub with darts, bowling, beers and pool, although it’s not quite close enough to the slopes to be classed as an ‘après bar’ and you need to watch the time as the bus back to the base doesn’t run late."

Victoria - "True to the British stereotype, one concern on arrival into resort was the price of alcohol in the bars and restaurants. Although not extortionate, this is definitely something worth considering if you like the odd drink whilst on holiday, as you can’t buy alcohol in the supermarkets either. The restrictions on sales of booze in Sweden mean that the nearest official government-owned liquor store to Vemdalen is a staggering 60 miles away. The locals have a rather ingenious trick around this expedition - they order it online and, somewhat furtively, the delivery turns up at a local sports shop in town. However, the website has the drawback of being in Swedish only. Moral of the story - if you would like a drink or two whilst away, it is definitely worth stocking up on duty free at the airport or packing your own! There are currently no restrictions to the amount of alcohol you can bring into the country as long as it is for your own personal consumption.

"If you are after a family friendly, prime beginner spot and a bit of Swedish charm and eccentricity, Vemdalen offers a great opportunity."

Joe - "Things cranked up quite a few notches in Åre, where the incredible view of the lake is hard to escape, whether you’re on the slopes or in the resort. There are three ski areas in Åre - Duved, Åre Village and Åre Bjornen - all linked by a free bus service. Unfortunately the ski area was not fully open this early in the season but we did have the opportunity to ski a couple of runs which gave us a taste of what the area has to offer. It is worth noting that many of the runs are floodlit until 8 pm in high season."

Sheila - "The range of accommodation was great to see and could cater for anybody’s needs, with the resort’s ski area and choice of shops, bars and restaurants rivalling those of the best known Scandinavian resorts. Restaurants are plentiful and very good. We were lucky enough to be able to spend an hour in a ‘hot tub’ at the 4* Hotel Fjällgården - more like a copper bath than a traditional hot tub but very relaxing nonetheless! Luke decided to leave the warmth of the tub and roll in the snow! This would have been fine had he realised that the snow had a crust of ice on the top - very painful and a good reason to return to the warmth of the tub!"

Luke - "You can see why Åre is the ‘premier’ ski resort in Sweden - the terrain is massive and the scenery is lovely. As it was early December we had only four hours of daylight each day, but the slopes are floodlit and the days get longer as the season progresses. It feels more like a traditional ski resort than Vemdalen in that the runs cross over, the pistes are varied and there are on-mountain restaurants dotted around. The big, sprawling town is chalk and cheese compared to Vemdalen, almost Colorado-esque, with a lively (but expensive) après scene in the evening."