Trip Report: All Ability Skiing on the East Coast
In mid-December 2018, Emily, Victoria and I went on an East Coast Ski Safari - combining three resorts in two countries - to get a taste for the less-visited side of North America. As it turns out, we neatly slotted into the Goldilocks trio of beginner, intermediate and advanced/expert skiers, so we each had a unique perspective on the three resorts. Here's what we thought.
Stowe
For beginners
Emily - As someone who is a little nervous to put on a pair of skis, the beginner area at Stowe was a great confidence builder. The Adventure Triple lift led to Inspiration Trail, a good name for an easy groomer to find my feet on. It's easy to progress from here to the Meadows Quad, which takes you to slightly higher terrain that's perfect for gentle confidence building.
Taking the Over Easy Gondola to the other side of the resort and then the Mountain Triple lift to the top allowed me to take the cruisy Toll Road trail back down - giving me the feeling of skiing from the top of the mountain down to the bottom while sticking to green runs.
The area around the Spruce Camp Base Lodge felt like a proper mountain village which you don't often get in North America, including a secret speakeasy parlour, which was invite-only, an ice-skating rink and a number of food outlets, shops and places to enjoy après.
For intermediates
Victoria - After a few years off skis, Stowe offered some nice quiet, tree-lined greens and blues to get back into the swing of things. You can ski from either a blue or black run from every lift, making it perfect for mixed ability groups - you can ski different runs and meet at the bottom. The terrain between each lift is quite flat, so it's definitely worth planning which lift you want to take next so you can ski right to it and save polling.
The town of Stowe is quintessentially New England and has a quirky ski museum which is definitely worth a look - if only to admire the ski outfits of the past! Slightly further afield, about a 20-minute drive, you can visit the Ben & Jerry’s Factory for the ultimate indulgent evening and see how your favourite ice creams are made before sampling some of the more unusual flavours!
For experts
Kat - For piste skiers, Stowe has a lot to offer - long cruisy blues, steep blacks and a few mogul slopes too. With crisscrossing runs, there’s plenty of choice, even the option to change pistes partway through if you feel like it. The Spruce Camp Base Lodge has everything you need - rentals, a cafeteria, a bar, toilets etc. - even a breastfeeding pod! I particularly enjoyed the Cubano sandwich which I’d been meaning to try ever since watching the film Chef.
The town of Stowe itself - a short drive away - is charming and easily walkable, with the enchanting Green Mountain Inn at its centre. Friendly locals fill the bar and as soon as anyone sees your ski wear they want to know about your day on the mountain!
Jay Peak
For beginners
Emily - As a beginner, tree skiing was not something I thought I'd be trying on this trip. However, with the encouragement of my instructor Chris, we ventured into a recently opened trail called Doe Woods - wide-spaced trees and a gentle slope allowed my first taste of glades on a pair of skis.
The Stateside side of the resort is well set up for beginners, complete with magic carpets and the Taxi Quad chair which takes you up to a variety of gentle slopes to build confidence and skill.
From the Hotel Jay and Tramside Lodge, there is an easy shuttle service that you just need to call and they will collect you and take you over (they will also do this for evening meals and activities) and then there are easy runs back down to Tramside for the end of the day. With a little more confidence, there are also green runs linking the two base areas.
For intermediates
Victoria - Jay Peak was definitely my favourite resort, it just offers so much variety for what appears to be a relatively small area. The range of glades available for all levels meant I was able to experience tree skiing for the first time and get a taste of what Jay Peak is known for.
The whole resort felt very relaxed and fun, drawing locals to the Hockey arena and waterpark, as well as the longer stay guests in the hotels which added to the feel of a real locals' resort. I’d definitely recommend a drive down the mountain to the town of Jay for the local pub and some of the excellent Vermont craft beers that they make in the area.
For experts
Kat - My favourite of the three resorts on this trip, if you love tree skiing as I do, you will love Jay Peak. On paper, it’s a small resort, but they pack so much into the area that it feels much bigger. With glades for all abilities, everyone can enjoy some off-piste, and with the amount of snow they regularly get, it’s a long season.
I also enjoyed the slides in the waterpark - whilst there’s a minimum height requirement, there’s no age limit! Kids and adults alike will love whizzing down these. Green and blue were my favourites as you get the cushion of an inflatable ring underneath you. The hot tubs with jets were also a great way to get knots out of muscles.
Tremblant
For beginners
Emily - We spent the most amount of time in Tremblant on this trip and it allowed me to get a good feel for a lot of the runs and the resort. The main Express Gondola immediately takes you to the top of the mountain - a cool feeling for a newbie.
From there, there are a number of long green runs that take you down to the south side of the mountain (where the main base area is) or you can go down to the north side and hop on the Expo Express back to the top.
The colourful village is bustling with life, with every kind of restaurant you could think of, shops, bars and activities – all within walking distance of all accommodation. The Cabriolet Lift links the lower village with the slopes at the top meaning you don’t have to hike anywhere in ski boots!
For intermediates
Victoria - Tremblant was the biggest and busiest resort we visited. The focus is definitely on piste skiing and the vibe was very French compared to skiing in Vermont earlier in the week. I’d recommend skiing the north side of the mountain in the morning and the south in the afternoon to get the best of the snow.
I have to recommend the ski school, I had a great couple of days with my instructor who definitely made me much more confident in my skiing ability, getting me down some black runs with a little bit of style for once! Easily some of the best lessons I’ve had.
The village itself is fun, colourful and busy. There’s a wide range of restaurants, bars and a couple of clubs for the night owls. The outdoor ice rink wasn’t ready but it did look very scenic next to the lake for a fun après ski activity. You can also take a short drive over to the village of Mont Tremblant for local shops and activities, in particular fat biking which has dedicated trails through local woodland, the e-bikes make it a good option for a rest day activity with the family!
For experts
Kat - Tremblant has just opened a few new gladed areas for this season so I was super excited to try them out. Unfortunately, we were a bit too early and the weather didn’t co-operate, so I will have to return another time. The black runs are well groomed and enjoyably steep, with plenty of space for carving turns. I’d say this is more of a resort for the piste skiers than the backcountry fans.
I’d recommend returning to your condo for lunch as it’s so close - you’re never more than a lift and a run away - and the on-mountain dining options are better at snacks than main meals. Otherwise, there are a few restaurants at the base of the slopes too - La Forge was a firm favourite!
In the village itself, check out La Diable for tasty microbrews and burgers. I also spotted laser tag and an escape room if you want some indoor non-ski activities.