Trip Report: How Cold and Dark Is It Really in Norway?

If you’ve never been to Norway, you may have the preconception that the sun only pops up for an hour a day and you’ll need specialist arctic equipment to shield yourself from the cold. Aside from gaining a first-hand experience of each destination, the aim of our trip was to prove these misconceptions wrong.

Having hit the slopes of Norway’s west coast the season before, I was also intrigued to see how the terrain of the more central resorts stacked up. And what better way to put it to the test than by snowboarding alongside a mixed bag of skiers. Some had less than a week’s experience on the slopes and others had been skiing for nearly 30 years.

The ‘mixed bag’ of colleagues I’m referring to consisted of Ski Safari Founder Richard and Norway & Sweden Product Manager  Andy Hemingway (both seasoned skiers), intermediates Carina and Alec from the sales team (which also included myself), and budding beginner Harry from our operations team.

The itinerary for the week was nothing short of exceptional as we dived straight into Beitostølen’s Saturday night ‘afterski’ party and confidence-building slopes before trundling across to Geilo and its stunning ski area. Gausta then exceeded all expectations with plenty of light snow to play in before any aching muscles were soothed in Norefjell’s sensational spa at the end of the week.

For more personal advice on skiing in Norway or a tailor-made quotation, enquire online or call our ski specialists on 01273 224060.

By Archie Hampshire, Marketing Executive

Knowing Beitostølen as a compact, family-friendly resort, I thought, “surely there’s not much of an afterski atmosphere, right...?” Wrong!

Due to the development throughout the village in recent years, the various bars and restaurants in the resort are attracting more weekend visitors from Oslo, creating a lively atmosphere in Svingen Pub and Lodge 900 where we started our night.

Although the vibrant atmosphere in Lodge 900 took us by surprise and we were eager to continue mingling with the locals, dinner was calling. We headed next door to Casa Montagna Italian Restaurant in the newly developed 4*+ Riddergaarden Apartments. Here we feasted on cured meats and fresh fish before strolling over the road to Svingen Pub where we were warmly welcomed by those in attendance. The team then followed the local procedure and spent the evening dancing on and off the tables!

Collectively we may have been a bit dusty the next morning, but after fueling up at the 4* Radisson Blu Resort Beitostølen with a buffet breakfast we were ready to get out and do what we love most - skiing and snowboarding.

Beitostølen was the perfect place to start. We spent the morning cruising down the wide, uncrowded slopes and messing around with the interactive obstacles spread around the beginner area. They're meant for the kids, but as there weren't any around, we took it upon ourselves to make sure they were in working order!

Broad, quiet slopes - tick. Ski areas dedicated to children - tick. Gentle terrain - tickety tick! After skiing all morning, Beitostølen proved to us why it's a great destination for first-time skiers, trepidatious intermediates and families.

But what about those looking to progress and test their technique on more challenging runs? Whilst there may not be a marked black section in Beitostølen’s main ski area, we discovered the Raudalen area ticks the box for budding intermediates. It's a hop, skip and a shuttle bus from the village to Raudalen and once we'd tired ourselves out, it was time to head back to Lodge 900 - not for more dodgy dancing! During the day the club transforms into a stylish restaurant! So we each tucked into a pizza before departing to our next destination.

Before visiting, I'd heard plenty of good things about Geilo from colleagues and customers. The resort is a serial award winner, having consecutively scooped up Norway's Best Ski Resort in the World Ski Awards for the past five years, so I was keen to see what all the fuss was about for myself.

The sun had set by the time our transfer bus pulled into Geilo, but there was a lot to look forward to that evening. We started a Ski Safari favourite, the 4*+ Dr Holms Hotel, for a spot of bowling in their beautifully designed American-style diner. After a couple of competitive games, it was time to sit down for dinner in the Chambrè Sèparèe, a historic formal dining area. The wonderfully balanced blend of modern and classic dining options throughout the hotel emphasises the Dr Holms' ability to cater for all types of guests.

That night we jumped from one Ski Safari favourite to another as we checked into the 4*+ Vestlia Resort for a good night's rest. 

It’s well documented that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and if you’re a firm believer in this philosophy (like myself), then the Vestlia Resort’s breakfast buffet will certainly put a smile on your face. From hearty fry-ups to healthy bowls of fruit and everything in between, we all left the restaurant that morning fuled and ready to go!

Another beautiful day in Norway meant there was no time to lose as we caught a shuttle bus over to the Geiloheisen side of the mountain where the sun was shining and beginning to loosen up the snow.

Here we were able to build on the confidence gained in Beitostølen as we tackled blue and red groomers, plus our first black run of the trip! It was immediately obvious there was a vast choice of pistes here and we wasted no time laying down tracks all over this portion of the mountain.

Inevitably we started to get peckish in the early afternoon. This was the signal for us to hop back on the shuttle bus to the Geilolia and Kikut area located on the other side of Geilo.

We made a beeline for the recently renovated Kikut Bistro, and I think I can speak for all of us when I say this is a MUST visit whilst in Geilo. The Mont d'Or platter would be in contention for the heartiest dish of the trip. You'll also find a crowd-pleasing cheddar burger here, all making for a cheesier combination than Laurel and Hardy.

The variety of skiing in the Kikut area personifies why Geilo's won so many awards. Immediately after you step out of the door of the Kikut Bistro, you're in a gentle, wide beginner area complete with a magic carpet and button lift. We opted to push on a bit further and slide the short distance to the Toppheisen lift. This T-bar is a key to unlocking heaps of intermediate-level fun.

From Kukittoppen we had spectacular views of the Hallingskarvet National Park before cruising down two terrain parks. It was here where I landed my first box feature and was reminded that snowboarding in Norway is seriously enjoyable as I left the terrain park brimming with confidence!

Now I understand why Geilo gets all the plaudits as an all-round resort. But not having children myself, it's hard for me to understand why it's a hit destination amongst families. So I asked Norway Product Manager Andy Hemingway who chose this resort for his family’s first skiing holiday seven years ago when his children were four and two years old and still returns regularly:

“The resort is easy in every aspect and is a quintessential family ski destination. Myself and the kids always stay at the Vestlia Resort. It’s a first-class choice for families as it flaunts sensational facilities, including a HUGE soft play room, a pool (with a slide) plus it’s a two minute walk from the Trollklubben (kids club). I have fond memories outside the Trollklubben as it’s where my daughters learned to ski. I highly recommend the gentle run outside the kids club as your children's first run, and Geilo in general as a skiing destination.”

The evening was capped off with a relaxing soak in the Vestlia Resort's hot tub and a few laps of the waterslide, followed by a tour of the Vestlia’s Art Gallery featuring the famous Gundersen Collection! We then squeezed in a beautiful three-course meal in the Vestlia's restaurant.

Whilst we could’ve happily stayed longer, the gang were very excited to sample the latest addition to the Ski Safari programme next.

Other members of the team had visited Gausta in the summer and it sounded like the resort was bursting with history and fun activities to do off the slopes. However, the six of us would be the first Ski Safari group to hit the slopes at our newest resort. To say we were excited would’ve been the understatement of the season, especially as we arrived to a flurry of light, fluffy snow!

We sheltered ourselves from the snowfall and checked in at the 4* Gaustablikk Fjellresort. As it was lunchtime, we sat down to eat in the Blikk Fjellbrasserie located towards the back of the hotel. Our eyes and tastebuds were in for a treat as we enjoyed beautiful views of the surrounding mountains whilst fueling up on fish and chips!

Like clockwork, the clouds parted and the snow stopped falling the moment we stepped into our ski and snowboard boots that afternoon. With plenty of fresh snow to play on, we threw ourselves into the deep end and sampled the Svart’n black run on the left side of the mountain.

A few of the veteran skiers sniffed out some untouched powder in the off-piste area under the lifts. When we regrouped at the base to start night skiing, everyone was grinning from ear to ear!

Speaking of night skiing, I think now would be a good idea to address our two most frequently asked questions regarding skiing in Norway "How dark and how cold does it get?" Over to Andy to explain the temperatures in Norway…

But what about how dark it gets? Yes, at certain times of the year (just like in the UK) the days are shorter and darker. How far north you are in Norway will have an impact on how long you'll have daylight. But even in the heart of winter during the shortest day of the year, you have daytime skiing from 9.30am to 3.30pm followed by floodlit skiing in certain resorts! Watch an assessment of the evening light from Andy Hemingway in Gausta as we enjoyed a spot of night skiing below.

Now we've cleared that up, I can tell you about our eventful trip the next morning to the iconic Gaustatoppen mountain. The weather had been on our side so far. However, that morning Gausta was experiencing some of the strongest winds in years.

The uphill drive to the mountain took us 15 minutes and when we reached the base, we were stunned by the beautiful views over the valley.

To reach the summit of Gaustatoppen, we rode the Gaustabanen, a fascinating funicular railway which travels through the insdie of the mountain! Once at the top, you can see for miles in either direction and even as far as Sweden! Sadly for us, the blustery conditions at the top kicked up the settled snow creating an almighty snowstorm thus restricting the visibility.

It's also worth noting when the gusts aren't touching 60mph, there's the option to ski back down from the top of Gaustatoppen. But the conditions weren't quite right, so we took the funicular back down.

All was not lost as we stopped off at the mid-mountain cafe, Gaustatoppen Turisthytte, for a coffee and to try some of the best waffles I'd ever tasted!

Mercifully the winds died down in the afternoon, so we still managed to get our skiing fix for the day. The two highlights for me were the scenery from Telemarksvingen, a cruisy green run which overlooks the town of Rjukan, and Hotellbakken, a wide empty red perfect for practising switch and butter tricks.

By the end of the afternoon, weary legs were beginning to creep in and the Gaustablikk Fjellresort has a unique and traditional Norwegian remedy to soothe achy muscles.

A short walk from the hotel is a sauna floating on a frozen lake and in the early evening, the gang braved the icy water before quickly retreating to warm up in the wooden cabins.

Feeling refreshed and energised, we threw on our evening wear and headed into Kirk's Bar in the heart of the Gaustablikk Fjellresort. We learned the bar's namesake is Kurt Douglas because the founder of the hotel was the skiing stuntman for Kurt in the film ‘The Heroes of Telemark’!

Rich in history and rich in entertainment, the bar is also home to two shuffleboard tables and a table tennis table. Some of the team played shuffleboard for hours whilst a couple of us took to the table tennis table. After thrashing Tour Coordinator Harry, my confidence was sky high, only to be served a hearty helping of humble pie by Founder of Ski Safari, Richard, in my next game.

Since returning home, I’ve spent the majority of my pay packets on table tennis lessons to ensure this doesn’t happen again!

After a good night's sleep we were up bright and early to slide down the beginner runs we hadn't yet explored on the right of the Gaustablikk.

Before too long it was time to get changed, grab a cinnamon bun from the Bakeriet and set off to our final destination Norefjell via Vemork.

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Vermork is as you would guess; fascinating. We had a brilliant time at the hydroelectric power plant learning about the famous heavy water cellar which played a key role in World War II. It was a wonderful pitstop on the way from Gausta to Norfjell and a wonderful combination of history, science and beauty.

Having visited Norefjell before, I knew an evening arrival meant only one thing... It was time to check into the 4*+ Norefjell Ski & Spa, chuck on a bathrobe and a pair of swimming shorts then stroll along to the hotel's magnificent spa. We clinked glasses in the outdoor hot tub under the stars and toasted to an exceptional trip so far.

The following morning we took the lifts up to Ravnås, a beginner and intermediate area boasting a beautiful backdrop that rivalled the scenery on Gausta's easier runs!

It would've been easy (and enjoyable) to stay there skiing lap after lap all day long, but Norefjell is home to some of Norway's best off-piste runs and our local guide Geir, knew exactly where to find them.

But before we ventured off-piste, we were treated to a spectacular lunch in one of Norefjell's swankiest bistros, Olympique. This mid-mountain restaurant wouldn't look out of place in an upmarket ski resort like St Moritz, and the food didn't disappoint either. To be that person on the table simultaneously nodding and making 'mmmhh' noises whilst eating, try Ukens pasta (pasta of the week).

After polishing off a luscious lunch, the others clicked into their skis and I strapped into my snowboard and then carved down towards Fjellheisen. Here we were treated to a plethora of empty red runs, untouched powder between the trees and a terrain park.

I must admit, this was my favourite afternoon of the trip. This area was perfect for our group's ability and provided sweeping views of Lake Krøderen below. Norway had a bumper year for snow and whilst floating through the off-piste areas, it felt like the powder hadn't been touched all season. It's fair to say that my first time snowboarding in Norefjell was up there with some of my favourite moments on a board.

After having such a fantastic day and week, sadly our time in Norway had nearly come to an end. Emotions were mixed on the last night as we were sad to be leaving all this snow behind, but incredibly grateful to Norway Home of Skiing for hosting us. So as a group, we decided to make the most of our final evening!

First things first was to revisit the spa, jump in the pool, hot tub, and plunge pools before freshening up for the evening.

We then assembled at the Norefjell Ski & Spa's Restaurant 185 in our finest evening wear ready for one final dinner together. The evening concluded with questionable dad dancing at the Matbaren bar at the bottom of the hotel before whizzing off to Oslo early in the morning to catch our flight back to the UK!

I'm sure most orthodox winter sports enthusiasts wouldn't rock up to a ski resort expecting it to be shorts and t-shirt weather. The optimum temperature on the slopes will need to be in the negatives. However, considering our visit to Norway was in the depths of winter, just wearing the basic skiing equipment of a thermal, t-shirt and jacket meant at no point did I feel chilly.

As for the dark, we packed in a lot of skiing across four resorts and never felt like our days were cut short. The combination of night skiing under Gausta's floodlights and encountering zero traffic at the lifts meant we finished every day with tired legs from maximising our time on the slopes.

So for anyone second-guessing Norway as a skiing destination, I strongly suggest you reconsider. If you pick the right resort, you'll never need to worry about there not being enough time to ski on account of the dark, or turning into a human ice sculpture because of the cold.

Now the 'myth busters' have personally debunked the cold and dark preconceptions about skiing in Norway, I bet you're as eager to try it for yourself as we are to get back out there!

For a tailor-made quotation, enquire online or call our friendly team of skiers and snowboarders on 01273 224060. Every member of the Ski Safari team has visited Norway, so we know it better than anyone else!

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