Trip Report: What's Skiing in Norway like as a Lifelong Alps Skier?

In December 2024, I visited Beitostølen and Geilo with five of my Ski Safari colleagues; Sales Consultants Dexter and Gwen, Tour Coordinator Karla, Finance Officer Connor and Norway & Sweden Product Manager Andy Hemingway, a former Geilo resident. We had a brilliant time, and it’s safe to say we’re all Norway converts.

I was blown away by pretty much everything Norway had to offer - even the transfers to and from the resorts, where we passed pristine lakes and couldn’t stop admiring the natural beauty, which made the journey fly by.

Beitostølen and Geilo share a lot of common ground that I think captures the quintessential Norwegian skiing experience: empty slopes, snow surety, amazing food, top-quality hotels, incredible skiing, a welcoming atmosphere and the amount there is to do off the slopes.

It's worth noting that this isn't a ski safari we feature on our website, but it's a twin-centre that works really well for beginner to intermediate skiers. As all our holidays are tailor-made, we can easily package the two resorts together with car hire or private transfers.

We were treated to some epic conditions in Beitostølen, with 20cm of snow falling overnight and more throughout the day. As soon as the mountain opened, we headed up the Ola-Expressen lift eager to hit the slopes and test out some Norwegian snow. The powder we discovered at the top lit up the faces of all the experienced skiers, while the easy-going slopes provided comfort for the less confident among us.

You couldn't have wiped the smiles off of our faces that morning. Partly because we were so happy to be back on the slopes (is there a better feeling?), but mainly because of how empty the slopes were. We might as well have hired out the whole mountain!

After a few runs getting our ski legs back and enjoying being back on the slopes, we headed for lunch at Lodge 900. We were served an array of delicious pizzas - a must-have food when eating on the slopes if you ask me. Although this wasn’t just any standard pizza I was used to from the Alps, but fresh, authentic pizza with tasty toppings - you know it’s good when the crusts aren’t left!

With our bellies full, we headed back out for an afternoon of skiing. Dexter and I had never really ventured off-piste nor had much experience with powder - I’ve always found the Alps a struggle to find any confidence-boosting off-piste, it’s generally ‘jump in at the deep-end’ with any untracked slopes. Yet Beitostølen was perfect - the off-piste sections had plenty of powder and are right next to the slopes, meaning they were easy to access and not too challenging for a first-timer.

Another plus of the off-piste location is that it allowed us all to ski together as a mixed-ability group. The run to the left of the Bitihorn Express was wide and relatively easy-going, perfect for the less confident skiers, while the rest of us took a detour to the side of the run through some fresh, deep powder before rejoining them for the rest of the run.

It’s no secret that there’s more terrain in some resorts in the Alps, but Beitostølen is the perfect example of quality, not quantity. I couldn’t recommend it more to beginners, families and those who are looking to expand their powder horizons.

Here’s what experienced skier Gwen thought about Norway and the epic powder we had in Beitostølen:

"I’ve had the pleasure of skiing at some of the top ski resorts around the world, including in France, Canada, and Japan. However, I had yet to experience skiing in Norway. From the very start, Norway’s personal and heartfelt welcome stood out as truly special. The warmth and hospitality of the resort staff and locals made the trip unforgettable.

Not to mention, the snow conditions were incredible! We had an amazing time lapping a couple of chairlifts, discovering fresh tracks between the trees and under the lifts. Just take a look at the immense early-season powder we had - spot me in the pink!"

"Compared to my previous ski experiences, one thing that struck me was just how peaceful the resort was. The slopes were incredibly spacious, with no crowds to diminish the serene charm; the perfect combination for improving. It was skiing with no distractions making our friendships within the group all the more closer.

If you are new to skiing, wanting to gain confidence or wanting to connect as a family or friends on a personal level, this is the resort for you."

Two common myths that come up when discussing Norway are that it gets dark early and you have less time skiing. Well - false! Even though it was snowing, so the skies weren't at their bluest, we still skied right up until the last lift at 3:30pm (we were meant to finish an hour before but we were having too much fun - oops!). There are also floodlights which enable night skiing on Thursdays and Fridays until 7pm- so you can consider those myths busted.

While we’re on the topic of myths, another common one is that Norway is too cold. In fact, this was the first thing my family said when I told them I was going! Consider this one false, too - temps hovered around 0°C and I found it no different to the Alps. You won’t need anything but your normal ski clothing. A few layers and you’ll be fine and dandy.

Overall we had an excellent time on the slopes, and it completely exceeded all expectations. A real hidden gem for improving skiers!

When we were finally dragged off the slopes, we checked out the village and all it had to offer. Beitostølen is one of the smallest resorts in our programme, but as we discovered that's incredibly misleading - there’s so much more there than meets the eye.

Firstly, it’s super convenient. Everything is within walking distance, which means that all accommodation is near the slopes and resort facilities. Coupling this with the welcoming atmosphere and the friendly locals means you’re already on to a winner - yet this isn’t even scratching the surface.

We stayed in the 4* Radisson Blu Resort, a sleek and modern hotel with great customer service that’s located right next to the ski lifts. You’ll also find a pool table, a gym and a 25m swimming pool to keep you entertained.

The stunning food was a real highlight too - we were lucky enough to have dinner with resort CEO Atle, who was incredibly welcoming and passionate about continually improving the resort. He told us all about Beitostølen’s history - it’s a great story and well worth reading! Our first full morning was spent looking around and learning about the accommodations - we swiftly concluded that we genuinely think you can’t go wrong. All are unique in their own right, but a similar homely feeling is present in each and every one.

Restaurants are aplenty in the village, so you're not limited to your hotel - there's more than enough to try a different place each night you stay. We ate at Caféen for our second evening, a tapas spot which offered a warm restaurant atmosphere and a variety of inviting, tasty food. Highly recommended!

Similar to the amount and quality of the restaurants, the diversity of bars in Beitostølen blew us all away. Our first night was spent at the ever-popular Svingen Pub where we took part in the pub quiz. The less said about our placement the better! We broadened our horizons the next night, spending a couple of hours in the new activity bar SPEL where we tried our hand at ‘duckpin bowling’, similar to normal bowling but with smaller bowls and you get three bowls per turn. Under the same roof, there’s also interactive darts, minigolf, shuffleboard and a pool table - I wasn’t lying when I said there’s more than meets the eye here!

A (really) short walk then takes you to another brand new sports bar, Kjeldarn Pub, which opened in November 2024. As an avid sports fan, it gets a massive tick from me - great vibes, tasty Norwegian beer and a massive TV screen showing live sport. A final highlight was Bryggerihuset - an official BrewDog DogDealer. It's a charismatic beer bar with over 30 craft beers on tap, plus a whole load in bottles. There’s live music too - it’s a truly unique bar for a ski village that epitomises just how awesome this resort is.

Away from the bars, we kicked back and relaxed in the state-of-the-art Ridderbadet Spa, located in the 4*+ Riddergaarden Apartments. In the spa, you'll find a sauna and an ocean-blue pool where you can swim out to a small outdoor section, where there's also a hot tub. Relaxing with the cool mountain air on your face is a dreamy feeling and the perfect remedy for tired legs after a day on the slopes - in my opinion, a must-do at least once during a trip to Beitostølen.

We had an amazing time exploring the village - I think it’s safe to say the convenience and variety of things to do off the slopes is light years ahead of what I’ve experienced in the Alps. We only wish we’d stayed longer to properly test out all of the options!

After heaps of fun in Beitostølen, we hit the road for a scenic two-and-a-half-hour drive to Geilo. We arrived with high hopes and we weren't disappointed...

Geilo’s ski area stood out to us instantly, with two sides to ski - the Vestlia side and the village side. Both were incredibly fun to ski and provided something for all abilities, with the Vestlia side perhaps leaning more towards beginners and the village side being an intermediate’s paradise with more challenging slopes available.

After our adventurous skiing in Beitostølen, we decided to stick to the pistes in Geilo. We skied the wide, empty slopes on the Vestlia side all morning, knowing we would be ramping up the steepness later in the day on the other side. With my Alps skiing background, I must admit I found it particularly hard to get used to not queuing for the lifts! This was something we all loved about Norway - whizz down the slopes at whatever speed you desire, knowing you’ll be whisked back up straight away - you get so much more actual ski time!

Before we headed for lunch, we had to try our hand at the timed slalom course on slope 52 - one of our favourite runs. It was a real adrenaline rush and very addictive - we could’ve happily kept trying to beat our time all day!

We were treated to beautiful blue skies in Geilo - take a look at our highlights:

Lunch at the on-mountain Kikut Bistro was stunning - we’d all recommend a visit (or two!). A quick chairlift then took us directly to Kikuttoppen Vinbar, where we were treated to the most amazing view. We took it all in over a glass of white wine, reminiscing about an amazing morning’s skiing and looking forward to some more turns in the afternoon.

The free ski bus, which runs throughout the day connecting the two ski areas, ferried us across the valley in only 10 minutes. We spent the afternoon hitting some epic red runs, the groomed pistes providing the perfect surface for budding carvers (myself!). A particular highlight was the last run of the day down my favourite slope in Geilo, red run 26, which summed up our experience: skiing the wide, empty slopes in fantastic conditions, with the eye-catching views of the mountains bathed in the light of the setting sun. It felt like something out of a film!

Karla found the slopes in Geilo to be perfect for improving her skiing:

"This was my first time visiting and skiing in Norway and it has definitely left me itching to go back!

I really enjoyed the skiing in Geilo. We spent the morning on the Vestlia side where I really enjoyed some of the cruisey blue and green runs, being able to take in the beautiful views as we skied down. There were hardly any queues for the lifts which meant we were able to make the absolute most of our time on the slopes.

In the afternoon we took the bus to the Geilo Village side. The slopes were almost empty, it felt like we had the mountain to ourselves which was great. We did a couple of red runs, which were a bit more of a challenge for me as I'm not such an experienced skier, but the empty slopes made it much easier to get the practice in and work on my technique."

One thing immediately stood out about the village in Geilo - it’s big! Top quality accommodation lies on both sides, and there’s even the 4* Havsdalsgrenda for those wanting to stay on-slope. Just like in Beitostølen, we were all majorly impressed by the standard of accommodation.  We stayed at the ski-in ski-out 4*+ Vestlia Resort, a Ski Safari customer favourite - and it was easy to see why.

Before I talk about the art, spa and activities, I can’t help but mention the food. The breakfast had a whole array of delicious choices available from the buffet, with the smoked salmon and scrambled egg being a personal highlight. Yet the dinner somehow topped it all - and impressed us no end. I’m not exaggerating when I say it was some of the best quality food I’ve ever had. Andy H, a former resident of Geilo and no stranger to the delectable food in Norway, declared ‘I tried to tell you!’.

Over the two 3-course meals we had, the food ranged from langoustine soup and sesame-fried tuna to start, to a sensational rack of lamb and a mouth-watering fillet of fallow deer for main. The dessert and accompanying wine package could have another paragraph themselves, but I’ll leave those to your imagination for now.

I could talk about the food all day, but there’s so much more to discuss about Vestlia Resort. It’s a large hotel with lots to do - our friend Geir from Norway Home of Skiing, who was showing us around both resorts, gave us a riveting art tour. That’s right, there’s enough history and artwork in the hotel for a tour.

A luxurious feel stretches throughout the hotel, as is seemingly standard in Norway, with the cherry on top being the restful spa which was a delight for our weary ski legs. Having a dip in the cold plunge after warming up in the sauna had us feeling very Norwegian!

Other activities include in-house bowling, which is always an enjoyable, social activity for all the family. We also had a look at (and dare I admit, a crawl through) the massive kid's play area, perfect for keeping little ones busy to their heart’s content. A social area lies a couple of floors below for any kids who’ve graduated from soft play, featuring a pool table and a big screen for films. With so much to do, we didn’t even find the time to go for a swim in the 20m pool, nor try out the 82m water slide that winds into it! Of course there's a gym as well, but I'm afraid we didn't have 'enough time' to test that out either...

It’s worth noting that the incredible experience we had in our accommodation in both resorts isn’t exclusive to the ones we stayed in - the off-slope experience in Norway adds a whole extra dimension to your holiday, something I’ve certainly never experienced before in the Alps.

I hope the genuine love I gained for Norway shines through in this blog. It’s a stunning country and we all had an amazing time. Snow has continued to fall since and it's shaping up to be a fantastic season.

Beitostølen and Geilo shattered all expectations on and off the slopes, and to say we’re eager to return would be an understatement. We didn’t even experience the winter activities available, which include snowshoeing, snow rafting, ice fishing, dog sledding and much more!

Converting my perennial Alps-returning family is top of my to-do list, and I've already kickstarted the process with a late March trip currently in the works.

Personally, I'm lucky enough to be returning to Norway in early March to visit Gausta and Norefjell on another research trip, and the days are already being counted down! Stay tuned on the Ski Safari Instagram and Facebook, where I'll be posting daily stories and posts.

Don’t just take my word for it. Contact our friendly and knowledgeable team to start planning your tailor-made ski holiday so you can make your own mind up - but trust me, you won’t be disappointed! Call us on 01273 224060 (Monday to Friday) or enquire online to get the ball rolling.

Be sure to join the Ski Safari mailing list to stay up to date with all things skiing.